Glazing is different from that of bodying the guitar by two major distinctions. First, we
will use a very thin cut of shellac instead of the 2 pound cut that we have used up until now.
Second, we will apply the shellac without using more straight patterns and fewer circular
patterns. We will apply the shellac almost exactly the same way as we stiff the guitar.
That is, we will start in the middle of the back of the guitar and apply the shellac mixture
in a straight line from the heel to the tail. Circular patterns are used less often and are
a method to correct problem areas. The object of glazing is simply to fill scratches left by
the final leveling (sanding).
Lets proceed as follows . . .
You can make the thin glazing cut of shellac by simply adding several parts of alcohol to 1
part of shellac that you have been using up until now. Install a clean muneca cover and add
a few drops (about 3 or 4 drops) of the 2 pound shellac. Add an equal amount of alcohol to
the muneca and a drop of olive oil. Again as always, smack against the back of your hand to
distribute the mix. Now, in a straight line press the muneca firmly starting from the heel
and go to the tail of the guitar. Remember to glide on and off the guitar.
Having adequate light will greatly help in gauging your
progress.
Repeat this pattern
working from the middle to the edges of the guitar always watching for the cloud. Repeat this
on the top, sides, and neck of the guitar. If you discover any defects while glazing the
guitar use a very fine 1200 grit wet or dry sandpaper to level the area and continue to glaze
the guitar. Remember to glaze the corners of the guitar and take extra care around the
perimeter.
This glazing procedure serves three purposes. First, it tends to smooth any ridging while
filling the micro-scratches left from the final leveling. Second, the very thin cut of
shellac tends to polish the instrument to a higher gloss while adding additional shellac
to the guitar. Third, since more pressure is used, it tends to harden the finish.
Many expert French polishers will add additional body coats after the final leveling and
then use a liquid abrasive/polishing compound in place of using the glaze coat method that
we use. You do, however, run the risk of actually polishing through the finish to the wood.
An abrasive such as automotive rubbing compound will remove the very thin shellac finish.
We have tried both methods and agree that the glazing method leaves a much richer and deeper
finish without the risk of ruining a great deal of work.
Once the glazing procedure is completed, inspect the work to locate any dull areas or defects.
Lightly sand defects with 1200 grit wet or dry sandpaper and add additional glaze coats to
the entire area. Dull areas are probably a result of the finish being too thin or of scratches
not fully filled (glazed). If you discover a defect in the side of the guitar, sand and
re-glaze the entire side. The same should be done on the top, back, neck and any other area
that requires attention. When the final glaze coats are dry (about 4 days) we can now polish
out the guitar.
Polishing
This is the simplest part of French polishing. First, go over the entire instrument with
Meguiar's #7 Show Car glaze. Once again, if you discover a thin or dull area, add additional
glaze coats. You will need to wait at least two days after any glazing process before you
can use the Meguiar's and complete the project.
Again, good light is a must. Note the smears of oil on the surface that is being
glazed. The Meguiar's #7 will remove this residue easily.
If you discover a slightly dull area or tiny scratch at during the #7 process you can attempt
to correct the problem with Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover. Be careful since this product contains
a fine abrasive. The idea is to polish out a defect rather than fill it with more glaze
sessions. This will only work if there is enough finish present to allow for abrasive
polishing. Keep in mind that many times dull areas are a result of the finish being too
thin. Abrasive polishing will only worsen this type of problem. On the other hand- a
thin, dull area will need to be re-glazed with more sessions anyway so the abrasive
polishing with Meguiar's #9 may be worth a try.
